



THE ROSS 



TAILOR SYSTEM 



GARMENT CUTTING 



n 



Actual Measurements. 1 

1 



SECOND EDITION, 



-J- 



MRS. H. A. ROSS, Inventor. 



Battle Creek, Mich. J 



WM. C. GAGE & SON. PRINTERS. 

1S87. 



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Sff ** m? 



THE ROSS 



TAILOR SYSTEM 



GARMEHT CUTTIEG 



Actual Measurements. 



(/ SECOND EDITION. 



< 



MRS. H. A. ROSS, Inventor. 



Battle Creek, Mich. j 01 o " a. , 

WM. C. GAGE & SON, PRINTERS. 

1887. 






s ip 




F^BFAGE. 



Iince the first edition of Mrs. Ross' Tailor System, 
in 1882, it has been tested thoroughly, and wher- 
ever introduced, has at once been fully appreciated, 
and, in the hands of intelligent painstaking wo- 
men, has gained a decided victory over the worth- 
less, inaccurate, and misleading methods so com- 
mon in every community. From among so many cutting 
systems, it is very difficult for the uninitiated to make a 
selection. Every chart vender makes his method appear 
to be the only perfect one, and a few explanations will 
not be amiss here. 

It is of no consequence, except for durability, of what 
material a cutting method is composed, nor how quickly 
it will draft the garment. It is of no merit merely be- 
cause composed of wood, or of tin, or of pasteboard. 
It is no recommendation that is quickly learned. Every 
method based upon the laws of proportion is valueless, 
and must ever be, as the measurements of the female 
form do not increase and decrease in any ratio or propor- 
tion. Only an actual measurement system can give sat- 
isfaction, and in every case the garment, when cut, must 
agree in measure with the form for which it is drafted. 
In the Ross System, the measures are applied directly to 
the garment, and no mistake is possible if instructions 
are followed. The System as revised is much more eas- 
ily understood, and the lessons easily learned, if the pu- 
pil will be patient, and pass over nothing until it is fully 
comprehended. We urge it upon all. Be accurate, not 
merely for your success in business, but for the sake of 
your sex. The incapacity of the female mind for accu- 
racy is a standing argument against the equality of the 
sexes. Hoping the Ross System may benefit and encour- 
age those real and unwritten heroines — the dressmakers, 
I remain respectfully yours, 

Mrs. H. A. ROSS. 
Battle Creek, Mich., Aug. 1, 1887. 



LESSON I. 

THE CUTTING RULE. 

The rule must first be studied, and the inches, half 
inches, quarters and eighths agreeing with the tape-line 
must be understood. The inch scale, 1, 2, 3, etc., is used 
in drafting length of front, back, and under arm as well 
as for sleeve drafting. 

The figures on middle row, at the half inches, are used 
in drafting chest and shoulder lines, and also to divide 
the figures on the quarter inches on the edge of rule. 
Thus, to divide any line, measure it by the half-inch 
scale, and the corresponding figure in the scale below it 
at quarter inches will be the middle of the line. The 
quarter-inch scale is the Round Scale, used in drafting 
the measures which are taken entirely around the body, 
hips, waist and bust. The square end is figured at the quar- 
ter inches, and is the neck scale, numbered 9, 10, 11, 12, 
13, 14. The end opposite the square end is the Pointed 
End, and contains neck and armscye curves, round form 
curve and Dart rule. Observe the location of D. T. S. 
(tops of darts), and also find stars at fig. 9 on inch scale 
and on Square End. Find X and B on face of rule, and 
A on back of rule. 

In drafting hold rule with Round Scale towards front 
edge of paper. Do not mark by the plain edge. To 
assist the learner in distinguishing the numbers referring 
to Rule from diagram, we have "Pointed End," "Inch 
Scale," etc., capitalized. The numbers in brackets ( ) 
refer to dots to be made in drafting. 

LESSON II. 

THE DRAFTING PAPER. 

The best quality of drafting paper is light manilla, 
No. 1, size 24x36, and can be purchased at a paper ware- 
house or of druggists. This quality is preferable to the 



plain newspaper sold at printing houses, as the latter is 
tt^tt easily torn. Under no circumstances use printed 
r wrinkled and uneven ones. 



very 
papers, 



F,i1 




LESSON III. 

TAKING THE MEASUKEMENTS. 
SEE FIG. 1. 

In using the Ross Tailor System it is of the utmost 
importance that the measures be taken correctly, as they 
are to represent the form to be fitted, and deviation from 
the rules will result unfavorably. Give your undivided 
attention to this lesson, study fig. 1 carefully, and you will 
be amply repaid by obtaining most gratifying results. 

1. Learn to repeat the names of the measures in rotation. 

2. Write the measures in their proper place in measure 
book. 

The measures here given are for a well proportioned, 
medium sized form, and are only used as a guide for 
beginners. 

Name Date 

Style 

Neck 13, length of back 16, length front 14, u. arm 9, 
hips 39, waist 24, bust 36, chest 12, width shoulders 13. 
Sleeve, — length 23, wrist to elbow 9-^, elbow to form 11, 
elbow to arm 9 ; length of skirt, front , back . 

3. The belt furnished with system is to be passed 
around the waist tight, and its lower edge outlines the 



waist line, upon which the other measures are built. 

1 Neck Measure. — Pass tape-line around the neck, 
low down, and under the collar. 

2 Length of Back. — This measure greatly controls the 
waist, and it must be taken carefully. Hold tape at 
neck above the prominent bone, and measure to the edge 
of belt, or waist line. 

3 Length of Front. — Measure from throat to waist 
line; do not take it higher than necessary. It should be at 
least two inches less than the length of back. 

4 Length under Arm. — Hold a lead pencil across the 
armpit, under the arm, pushing up as high as possible 
while the arm hangs naturally at the side, and measure 
from pencil to waist line. 

5 Hips. — If no bustle is worn, pass the measure around 
the body over the dress, taking a snug measure. If it 
cannot be taken accurately, suppose the hip size to be 
three inches larger than the bust measure. This, al- 
though inaccurate, is better than a measure taken over a 
very full tournure. 

6 Waist. — Take the waist measure under the dress 
waist next to the corset if possible, and always take it tight, 
we do not mean an " easy measure," but a very tight one. 
The dress goods will stretch in trying on, while the tape- 
line will not. 

7 JBust.— Take bust measure, measuring entirely around 
the body, close under the arms, bringing the tape-line over 
the fullest part of bust in front. Take the measure as 
tight as can be without compressing the form, as we add 
a trifle to this line in drafting, giving looseness enough. 

8 Chest. — Take measure across front of waist, be- 
tween front armscyes, the arms hanging at the side. 

9 Sttoulders. — Throw the shoulders well back and 
measure across between armscyes. Do not measure wider 
than necessary. 

10 Sleeve. — Hold tape at the very top of shoulder, and 
holding arm at the side very slightly bent, measure from 
height of arm to wrist bone. Next measure from wrist 
bone to elbow, then elbow to the side form of waist, fol- 
lowing the sleeve seam; lastly, hold the arm outstretched 
and measure from elbow to arm-pit. 

Shirt. — Take measure, front and back, from waist line 
to floor, except for children's clothes. 



Measure for a Yoke. — Pass a belt around the body 
close under the arms, measure neck, back and front to 
bust line, width of chest and shoulders. 

For Children. — Take measure for yoke, and if the 
garment is to reach the floor, or not, it is better to meas- 
ure from yoke to floor, then deduct from length as much 
as it is too long. Always omit waist and hip measures 
in drafting for very young children, as the garment 
should slant out wider from bust line to hem. 



FmZ 




LESSON IV. 

DRAFTING FRONT OF BASQUE. 
SEE FIG. 2. 

Note: — Pointed dots ( < ) are more easily seen, and 
are preferable to plain ones. 

1. Place the rule one inch back from top and front 
edges of the drafting paper; draw a line across Square 
End and the length of the rule; dot at neck size 13 on 
square end, and dot at length of back, 16, without mov- 
ing the rule. Letter the lines as fast as made to corres- 
pond with the illustration. 2. Number the dots. 
Hold rule in same position and move downwards until 
the length of front, 14, reaches the waist line, (16), and 
dot at the top of the rule. 3. Move rule down again in 
a like manner until length under arm, (9), reaches waist 
line, dot at the top of the rule. 4. Complete line A B 
to six inches below the waist, and placing rule at angles 
with the line at (6), draw straight line across to hip size, 
add one inch to this line, which is afterwards taken out in 
darts. In drawing the cross lines, the square end of 
rule must be exactly square with line A B. 5. Move 
rule upward in the same position to the waist line, (16) 
draw straight line across and dot at both WAIST and 
BUST, sizes 24 and 36 on rule. 6. The number of inches 
between these dots indicates the amount of cloth to be 
sewed in dart seams. Write the number below the dot. 
The darts are not drafted until the pupil becomes famil- 
iar with the outlines. 7. Move rule upward until it 
reaches hight under arm dot, (9), and draw straight line 
across to bust measure on rule. 8. At half way be- 
tween bust and neck, draw chest line across, square 
with line A B, at this central line (line G), dot at chest 
measure on Middle Scale. 

9. The shape of the front shoulders is found to be diffi- 
cult to remember, and especial attention is called to the 
diagram. Hold rule straight with line A B, square end 
towards C. Place 9 (triple stars on rule) at the neck 
size on paper, (13.) Now, without moving rule, dot at 
triple stars on the square end. This shoulder is 3-j inches 
too long for medium measures, and should be marked 
short enough to lit the back (after the back draft is 



10 

made). Draw line I between the dots at shoulder and 
neck. 

10. Draw neck curve from (13) to (14) by placing A on 
plain side of rule, at (14). 11. Draw upper half of arm- 
scye, line J, by placing point of rule at length of shoul- 
der, (5-J), and draw line to chest line, (12). For lower half 
of armscye, place X, on rule, at (36) and draw line to 
join line J, at (12). 12. Place B, on rule, at extremity of 
bust line, (36), and draw line to bust dot on waist line 
The waist and bust lines are always of an equal length. 
Do not make the mistake of drawing under arm line 
from (36), bust line, to (24), waist line, as this space is taken 
up in dart seams. 13. Turn rule over, and placing point 
at Avaist line (36), draw line to hip measure, (38). 14. The 
waist, as now outlined, makes no allowance for seams 
nor for lap on the fronts. Every dressmaker can testify 
that it is better for each one to leave seams to suit them- 
selves. We only insist that the waist, when done, shall 
agree in every part with the draft. 

We will now draft the French front, which allows I 
inch lap for buttons and buttonholes. Make a dot \ inch 
from neck, (14), and a dot f of an inch from bust line, a 
dot \ of an inch from waist, (16), a dot f of an inch from 
hip, 6 ; draw straight lines to meet these dots, forming 
curving front. 15. The darts must now be drawn. The 
fig. 2 shows the waist. 24, and bust, 36, the difference in 
inches is 3, and this amount we divide in two darts of 
equal size, 1^ inches. When any difficulty is experienced 
in dividing the dart space, dot between (24) and (36) as 
near the middle as you can, and measure each half. If 
they are not exactly of even width it is of no conse- 
quence, but the wider dart should be placed nearest the 
front. 16. In small and medium measures the first dart 
is drawn one and one-half inches back of line A B at 
waist ; this space is increased in proportion to the waist. 
In measuring a 30 inch waist, place first dot If inches 
from (16); in 34 waist place first dot 2 inches from (16); 
and for larger measures make the space 2|- inches. The 
darts will greatly vary in different measures, and the 
principles of drafting them must be understood, or it 
will be useless to attempt to draft them. Study fig. 2 
carefully. 17. Begin to space the darts thus: measure 
one and one-half inches from waist dot, (16), and dot 



11 

plainly, then measure the amount required for first dart, 
one and one-half inches, leave a space of J of an inch 
between dart spaces, and then dot for the rear dart, one 
and one-half inches. Mark a circling line (^^) over 
each dart space, dot in the middle of each and draw 
lines O and R through the centre of each dart. Hold 
the square end of rule even with bust line to draw these 
lines, and dot at 3^- inches from bust line for height of 
first dart, and 3 inches from bust line for height of 
second dart. Place D T S on rule at these dots, (3^-) and(3), 
and draw curve lines, N and Q, then reverse the rule and 
make the lines P and S, the mark — on plain side at top 
of dart. Be careful and do not get the dart lines curved 
out on one side and in on the other; look at the diagram 
and observe the darts slant outward from top to waist 
line. On each side of lines O and R, at hip line, mark 
off one-fourth inch, draw straight lines from darts at 
waist line through these dots, thus completing the darts. 
Dotted lines on fig. 2 show the manner of drafting 
darts below the waistline; for fleshy ladies who require 
it, these lines are formed by placing the D T S on rule at 
dart dots and drawing lines curving in toward the middle 
' lines. 

18. After the draft is complete, go over your work 
with rule and see that you have made no mistake. 
Prove your work, and if any mistake is found a new 
draft must be made. Every draft should be thus tested, 
as even after the most careful study, mistakes frequently 
occur, and the system would be condemned at once, 
should the garment fail to fit, when the fault lay wholly 
in the drafting. 

19. The double-breasted front, shown on fig. 2, is 
readily understood to be the exact counterpart of the 
French front, and is joined the entire length in a seam 
to the front. It is not necessary to have this lap ex- 
tend from neck to hip, but can be cut any desired length 
or shape, but the front lines must curve in at waist, ex- 
actly alike. In making, the centre front lines are lapped 
one-fourth of an inch, and the buttons sewed on from 
marks made through the buttonholes. 20. In cutting out 
the pattern, cut on lines exactly, but if the draft is made 
on lining, as is usual, seams must be allowed at shoulder, 
under arm, and a hem for the fronts. 



12 




LESSON V. 

DRAFTING THE BACK OF BASQUE. 
SEE FIG. 3. 

1. Place rule one inch from top and front edges of 
paper and draw line A, B and C across the square end 
and the entire edge of the rule without moving rule. 
Dot at neck scale, 10, in any and all neck drafts (the 
neck measure being controlled by the front). Letter 
the lines to correspond with fig. 3, and number the dots 



13 

as fast as they are made. Dot at neck, (10), length of 
back, (16). 2. Move rule downward until under arm 
length reaches waist, (16), and dot at the top of rule, (9.) 
3. Complete line A B to six inches below the waist, and 
dot, (6). 4. Divide the line A B between A and bust dot, 
as for front, giving the location for width of shoulders. 

5. Begin at hip to draw the round measures, dot at hip 
measure on rule, holding square end straight on line A B. 

6. Move rule to waist dot, draw a straight line across 
but do not dot at waist size. Make a dot one inch from 
(16) on waist line (see diagram), and from this point draw 
a line to neck A, and then a slanting line from waist to bot- 
tom of basque. This is the centre back seam, and from it all 
the round measures must be measured, but the rule must 
be held even with line A B in drawing the lines or they 
will not be square. 7. From the inch dot on waist line 
mark off the waist measure, (24.) Sub-divide this line 
into three spaces, the centre back the narrowest. In meas- 
ures from 22 to 26, make the first space, centre back, 
one and one-half inches, space for side form from one 
and three-fourths to two inches, leaving the portion re- 
maining for under arm piece, which should measure as 
much, or more, than either of the others. These spaces 
are to be increased in proportion to the waist measure. 
8. Move rule to height under arm, (9), and draw straight 
line across (see line E). Move rule to slanting line in centre 
of back, and mark at the bust measure on round scale. The 
round seam crosses the bust line exactly in the middle, so 
dot at the middle of the line before removing rule. 9. 
Draw width of shoulders, (12), on middle scale, at the dot 
on line A B (see line F). 

10. To form shoulders, place D T S at neck, (10), and 
draw a line to extremity of shoulder line, (12). Hold the 
rule face up. 

11. Armscye is formed with neck curve on rule; 
place X at bust line, (36). Under arm line is drawn from 
B, on rule at (36), to waist dot, (24). 12. Turn rule over, 
place'point at waist, (24), and draw to hip measure, (39). 
13. Draw a line across back of neck, taking out f inch 
in centre of back. 

14. Round form. — Place Point at the middle dot on 
bust line, and draw curved line to waist line at first 
dot. Move rule point to armscye, lap dart rule on the 



14 

line just formed, in such a manner that the lines thus 
joined will form one smooth circle, avoiding an angle; 
make the lineH. 15. Line I is drawn by dart rule. Place 
Point "at armscye, one and one-fourth inches from the 
line H, and draw a line to clot 2 on waist. Mark small 
darts on these seams, as shown in fig. 3, taking out alto- 
gether half an inch. Do not omit this, it does not alter 
the measures, but makes the back armscye fit more snug. 
The gore, or dart, is cut away in cutting out the pattern, 
tapering from armscye to bust line. 16. Complete 
skirt of centre back by making dot on hip line three 
inches from centre, 0; double the width at the hip, as at 
the waist, is a good rule for centre back. From the 2nd 
dot on waist, draw line to hip, forming a V, thus destroy- 
ing the skirt of side form, which must be drafted on a 
separate piece of paper, in this manner: 11. Double a 
piece of drafting paper, 64- inches in length, the folded 
edge to be the centre when cut. At upper edge mark a 
line one-half the width of the side form at waist, finch; 
at bottom of paper mark the width of side form, 1-J 
inches, draw a straight line between these lines, cut on 
the lines, unfold and pin to the side form. When draft- 
ing for basques with pleated backs, it is needless to draft 
the skirt portion, as the pleats give the shape and fullness. 
18. In cutting out the pattern cut exactly on the lines, 
and after cutting lines I, J, G and H, trim off a trifle of 
the pattern between bust and waist, as dotted on fig. 3. 
Trim off one-eighth of an inch at the deepest part. Do 
not omit to do this, or the garment will lack the fine fit 
so desirable. Cut away line A B and the V on side form 
below waist. 



15 




LESSON VI. 

TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 
SEE TIG. 4. 

1. The beginner should use the same measurements 
given in Lesson 3, until the drafting is well understood. 
The inch scale of rule is used in obtaining length meas- 
ures. 



16 

2. Form diagram, A B C D, lines A B and C D, 
to be the length of arm (23), and the lines A C and B D 
to be the length of the bust measure on the rule. (36). 
— Letter the lines and number the dots. 2. Place rule 
lengthwise on line C D, the stars on the square end 
touching dot D, dot at fig. 2 on rule (see 2 on diagram). 

3. Draw a line live inches long from dot 2 to the line 
B D, fig. 5, on rule intersecting the line (1) and forming 
wrist line. 

4. Draw a line parallel with line A B, through the 
lower portion of draft (see line P T), two inches inside of 
line A B. 

5. Place square end at 1, and measure the length from 
wrist to elbow 9^- inches, this line to meet line P T (dot 
3), then draw it with the dart rule D T S at elbow. 

6. Hold square end of rule at line P T and draw 
straight line across the draft to line C D, forming elbow 
line (4). 

7. Draw a line from elbow (3), to line A B, the length 
of the third measure, from elbow to side form of waist 
(see 3, 5 on diagram), 11 inches. 

8. To form the under of sleeve. Begin by making a 
dot on wrist line, one-and-a-half inches from (1), make 
dot (6). 

Draw line L the length of second measure, 9^- inches. 
This elbow dot will always come above the elbow line, 
and must be two inches inside of first outline (see dotted 
line 7). 

10. Place square end on elbow line and draw line M, 
joining line L. It is to be the length of third measure, 
11 inches (8), and, before completing the draft, take a 
tape line or rule and measure the back outlines. As these 
lines are joined in making the sleeve, it is readily seen 
that they must be of equal length, and, if a mistake oc- 
curs, it is usually in drafting the under. Practice until 
the draft is perfect without correcting. 

11. Next draw line I the length of fourth sleeve meas- 
ure, 9 inches, and shape by placing point of rule at elbow, 
holding rule face down, and drawing curved line from 4 
to 9. 

12. The dots on line A C are formed by first dotting 
in the middle of line A C, then dot two inches from this 



17 

towards the back outline (A), (see lesson 3, clause 7), 
make a curved line (J), by placing Point at the rear dot 
and drawing on dart-rule, 9 line to 8. Turn rule over 
and draw along dart-rule, from middle dot on sleeve top 
to (9) line K. 

Draw curve line (N), by placing point at 9, and draw 
by the dart-rule to 8. 

LESSON VII. 

DRAFTING CHILDREN'S GARMENTS. 

1. The draft for misses' and children's waists is the 
same as described in lesson 3. The measures transferred 
to the waist make the changes. The difference between 
waist and bust measures in young children is little or 
nothing, and no darts can be taken up. The small space 
for them will be needed to make the garment loose. 

2. When the waist is to be open in front, allow a lap 
of one-half inch straight down the front. 

tggt Always measure more loosely for children's clothes. 

3. When the garment is open in the back, cut the 
front double, the line A B to be the centre of front. Al- 
low one-half inch lap upon back, and allow for hems. 

4. Children's waist, backs should be divided in two 
pieces instead of three. To be sure of curving the round 
seam correctly, draft in three parts as usual, then cut or 
mark down the centre of side form its entire length, from 
armscye to waist, leaving the back in two parts, omitting 
lines H and I. 

5. To cut basques, cloaks, etc., for children, it is much 
more simple to cut no plaits in the back, or postillion. 
It gives a short-waisted look to the garment, and is oth- 
erwise unbecoming. There are many other ways of 
trimming the back, such as lapels, braid, buttons, and 
sashes. 

6. Boys' coats are drafted according to the measure 
above the waist line. The hip measure is often less than 
the waist measure, so the garment must slant out from 
waist line downwards, no hip measure being used. To 
draw this line (waist to hips) place B on rule at waist dot, 
and draw alone: the dart-rule side. 



7. Back of boys' coat, draft the outlines same as usual, 
above the waist. To draw under-arm line, place B on 
rule at waist dot, and draw straight down to bottom of 
coat, divide the back in two parts. The centre back the 
wider. If the coat is to be wadded, allow one inch larger 
when drafting. 

8. Gentlemen's dressing gowns are cut to measure, 
above the waist, and the same rule should be followed 
below the waist as for boy's coat. 

9. Sleeves for gentlemen or boys are drafted inside the 
diagram, instead of two inches outside of diagram at the 
wiist, and two inches inside diagram at the elbow. The 
line from elbow to side form, will be the line A B. 
Commence by placing tig. 2 on diagram two inches 
above angle D, then place Square End at 2, and measure 
from five to six inches as desired, measure wrist to elbow, 
from (1) to the line A B, and complete the draft in a like 
manner; the line P T is omitted. 

girl's sleeve. 

10. Draw diagram width of bust measure and length 
of arm. Place rule on line C D, and instead of placing 
stars on angle D, place the first inch mark there, and dot 
at fig. 1, on rule. This gives a square of one-inch outside 
the diagram. Place corner of rule at this dot, (1), and 
draw wrist line four inches. Line P T is drawn one-inch 
inside line A B, draw the outlines of upper, according to 
the measures, as usual. 

11. For under side of sleeve, mark one inch inside of 
back outline, on wrist line, (6), and dot for elbow one inch 
inside line P T. The measures are drafted as usual. 

Note. — No seams are allowed for in any of our sleeve 
drafts. 

Practice drafting from the following measures : 

Neck, 11; back, 13^-; front, 11-^-; under-arm, 7£; hips, 
28; waist, 22; bust, 26; chest, 9£; shoulder, 10. 

Sleeve. — Length, 20£; wrist to elbow, 8-^-; elbow to 
side form, 10; elbow to arm-pit, 9. 




LESSON VIII. 

TO DRAFT POLONAISE OR WRAPPER. 

1. The cut shows a plain wrapper with pleated or pos- 
tillion back, and is the model for cutting both wrappers 
and polonaise, and long, tight-fitting cloaks, as well as 
basques. 

2. Cut linings as for basque, lessons 3 and 4, but be- 
fore cutting the skirt lining, if any is used, or cutting 
the goods, join the under-arm piece of back to the under- 
arm seam of front, at hip line, (38), forming a deep 
under-arm dart. The goods is left entire below the ex- 
tremity of this dart. Cut line E straight out to bottom 
of skirt, (B D), below hip line, 'leaving line B D 24 inches 
wide. 

In cutting polonaise front, leave the goods square and 
whole below hip line (instead of cutting on line E), until 
the plaits and draping have been adjusted. 



20 

Back of wrapper, from hip line, F, follow the outline 
of basque lining to hip line, then leave the edge straight 
to bottom of skirt. Pleats are cut in the centre between 
the backs, and between backs and side forms, making 
three groups of pleats. So arrange the linings on the 
goods, that line F will be the selvedge, and line C D 
will be the fold (in 54 inch goods); leave more cloth for 
pleats between side and back than in the centre of back, 
and the latter, when unfolded, will be the larger. (See 
diagram 1, 2.) 

The waist, bust, and hip lines in joining these garments 
MUST be on a line, as shown in the cut. 





LESSON IX. 



DOLMAN WRAP. 



1. Measurements. — Take waist measures as for basque, 
but a trifle looser, or add one-half inch to neck and round 
measures. Sleeve measures are taken as shown in fig. *7. 
1st. From centre back seam to chest, passing the tape 
around the highest part of arm (1 on diagram). 2d. 
From centre back seam around arm to bust (2 on dia- 
gram). 3d. From centre back seam around the elbow to 
wrist. The hand should be resting at front of waist in 
taking each of these measures. Do not take sleeve meas- 
ure tight. 



21 




TO DRAFT THE FRONT OF DOLMAN. 

Draft as for basque until reaching the armscye, which 
omit, then make a dot three inches above waist line 
on under-arm line, and draw curved line from chest line 
(12), to this dot; this line is readily curved by making a 
"sweep," it being only a plain semi-circle, cutting off 
three inches of bust line. (See 36.) If desired to have 
wrap tight-fitting, draft for darts as usual, or take up the 
entire dart space in one dart; allow a lap of one inch on 
fronts. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK OF DOLMAN. 

3. The back and sleeve are drafted in one piece, but 
are cut apart before cutting linings. Form lines A B C\ 
as for basque. Make no changes in drafting until reach- 
ing armscye, which omit, and dot at three inches above 
waist dot (24), draw straight line across (see 36), to the 
back seam of sleeve. Form hip line as for basque. 

4. Place point of rule at shoulder width (12), and draw 
a line along dart rule to waist line, leaving space for 
centre back at waist, from two to three inches, in propor- 
tion to the waist size. Draw line E, as for skirt of 
basque, thus completing the centre back. 

5. Complete the under-arm piece by drawing line F, 
parallel with line G; the under-arm piece cannot be cut 
out from the paper, but can easily be traced by placing 



22 

under the draft a piece of plain paper, and tracing the 
outlines from (3), line M, line D B, and line F, with trac- 
ing wheel. 

6. The sleeve measures, 1, 2, 3, are drafted by inch 
scale on rule, measuring from centre back seam, on draft, 
along shoulder, bust, and waist lines to the measures, 12, 
15, 22. (See diagram.) In the middle of sleeve top 
make a dot, and one inch above this dot begin a curving 
line from 12 to 12. Complete this line from dot to dot, 
curving outward from 12 to 15, and curving in from 15 
to 22 ; the curves are made on the dart rule. First draw 
a straight line, then curve one inch deep in the 
middle between 15 and 22. From 22 draw line to 
bottom of dolman, meeting line E, which completes 
the outline. The under-arm piece is cut, from (15) 
to (22) to fit the sleeve, and line C to fit the armscye, 
the remaining line being drawn between the extremities 
of the other lines. It is readily cut by studying the 
lines on front, which show how the seams, C C, 
join together. A simple way to cut this piece without 
drafting is to pin a piece of paper of sufficient size to the 
front, cut from bust line to under-arm seam, (3), then 
enough longer to sew across top of under-arm piece, 
then match the point, (15), to bust line of sleeve, and 
cut from 15 to 22 ; cut between the extremities of these 
lines and a piece will be formed which will fit perfectly. 
When cutting various shapes of wraps it is well to be 
guided by new patterns, but the plain dolman shape 
should be first drafted to be sure of the fit of the gar- 
ment. In many light wraps the under-arm piece is omit- 
ted, and the remaining seams joined, forming a cape-like 
garment, and a tape is sewn at waist in back, to adjust 
it. Wrap cutting is very difficult, and it is always best 
for a beginner to learn on cheap lining by cutting for 
various measures. Nothing nice should be attempted 
until the lining has first been cut, basted and tried on. 



23 



F,c? 




LESSON X. 

TO DRAFT GENTLEMAN'S SHIRT. 

1. Measurements. — Collar size, back, front, under-arm, 
width of chest and of shoulders, size around the body 
close under the arms, and length from neck to hem. 

2. Draft front from measures as for dress, but add two 
inches to the bust line for looseness ; for boys' shirts add 
but one inch; use bust measure at waist line, draw 
curved line from bust line to hem, the garment growing 
gradually wider. (See fig. 9.) Use same shoulder as for 
dress. 

3. Draft back straight down centre, and obtain 
shoulder same as in the front. Add three inches to the 
bust line and shape the garment from bust line as in the 
front; curve out back of neck one inch. 

4. For neck band take straight piece of paper, one 
inch in width, the length of the collar, curve middle out 
a trifle. Do not stretch the neck of the shirt in sewing 
on the band. 

5. Form diagram for one-half the sleeve, the length 
of the sleeve measure and width of the bust size on the 
rule ; make wrist 6^ inches on line B D (for boy's gar- 
ment, 5j), draw a line from 6 J to line C D, three inches 



24 

below the angle C. Draw curved line from A to this 
point, for top. The neck band when finished and 
buttoned, should measure half an inch less than the 
collar size. 





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LESSON XL 



PLAIN FOUNDATION SKIRT. 



1. Take the waist measure and the length measure in 
front and back, from belt to floor ; the skirt when com- 
pleted should measure two and one-half inches from the 
lloor in front. 

2. The length in the back varies with the fashions, 
but for walking skirt is usually cut short enough to clear 
the floor. 

3. Two and one-fourth yards around the bottom is the 
accepted width, and is composed of one front and two 
side gores, and one straight breadth in the back. 

4. First cut the back breadth the length from belt to 
floor — this is long enough to allow for bustle steels, and 
making, if the skirt is to be of moderate length (see 
diagram). The back breadth is to be 24 inches wide. 

5. Cut side gores from one breadth, cut same length as 
back, divide the breadth diagonally, leaving the top of 
gores 8 inches, and the lower edge 16 inches. 



25 

6. Cut front breadth one and one-half inches shorter 
than the measure from belt to floor, 24 inches wide 
at the bottom edge, and 16 inches wide at the top. To 
fit the figure perfectly, it is best to try the skirt on be- 
fore joining it to the band and fitting it by means of 
darts at the top of front and sides, but these darts can be 
sewed, and, by fulling the skirt some, can be made very 
nicely without fitting. The most of the difficulty in 
hanging dress-skirts is caused by sewing them to the 
band too plainly. 

7. The rule for placing the seams at the band is as 
follows, for medium size waists : From centre front place 
first seam 5j inches, second seam, 4j inches from the 
first, and the back gathered to fit the remainder of the 
belt. 

8. Cut the waist band from fine, strong material — 
lengthwise — and allow three inches more than waist meas- 
ure, for making and lap. 

9. Baste the skirt carefully, begin at the top, and do 
not stretch the bias edges of gores, trim even around the 
bottom, measuring with tape line, and if bustle or steels 
are to be worn, the sides are the only parts to be trimmed, 
that is, they must be even with both back and front. 
Another idea is to cut the bottom of skirt straight 
around, and round up the top of back breadth two or 
three inches to allow for steels. 

LESSON XII. 

CUTTING THE LININGS OF BASQUE. 

1. Having drafted the pattern, prepare to cut the lin- 
ings; place the silesia, doubled lengthwise as it is pur- 
chased, upon a long smooth table, pin the selvedges to- 
gether and pin on the pattern of front, leaving a hem, 
and placing the hip line of pattern next the end of lining. 

Note. — Do not cut linings crosswise of the cloth, as it 
will not make a good shoulder. Pin the pattern on in 
several places, cut around the edges, allowing for 
seams, half an inch at shoulders, and one inch at under- 
arms. 

2. Lay aside the front. Do not remove the pattern. 
Place the centre backs on the cloth cut away from the 



26 

front, the neck of pattern at the wide end of silesia. Be 
sure the waist line on pattern is even with the grain of 
the lining, the centre back seam cut slanting, just as 
the pattern is drafted, 3. It is a common fault to place 
the back seam even with the selvedge, w T hich destroys 
the shape entirely. To make sure of being right, it is 
best not to cut away the straight line in the draft, line 
A B, but leave it and place it straight on the edge of 
linings; allow^ half-inch seams on all seams; cut the back 
out and lay it aside. 

3. From the remaining goods cut the sleeve linings, 
keeping the elbow line square with the selvedge ; allow 
seams on both upper and under. The underside of 
sleeve is to be traced from the pattern, or, after cutting 
the uppers, the under pattern can be cut out. 

4. From the remaining pieces of lining cut the round 
forms, and the under-arm pieces. Keep the waist lines 
straight on the goods. This is of the utmost importance, 
do not neglect it. The waist, when done, is to be perfectly 
straight at the waist line, and if it is not cut square and 
true in every part, this will be impossible. 4. Allow 
seams on the forms one-half inch deep, and one inch deep 
at underarm. 

5. If convenient use a tracing wheel to mark around 
the edges of patterns. The seams must be traced, it is 
absolutely demanded. The sewing machine traces very 
nicely, the stitch being lengthened. 

G. Trace around the edge of all the patterns, and at 
waist line. It is not needful to allow seams around arm- 
scye or neck. The tracing completed, remove the pat- 
tern, and if any wadding is to be used, baste it on the 
linings. 

CUTTING DRESS GOODS. 

It is very necessary to first observe, before cutting 
into the goods, whether it has a right or a wrong side, 
whether an up or down, and whether there are plaids, 
figures or stripes to be matched. If the goods has a nap 
or pile, all parts of the garment must be cut the same 
way of the goods. 

In cutting plaids take one particular thread to be the 
waist line, and use this same thread in every piece of the 
waist, and the plaids will match perfectly all around. It 



27 

will not, however, make the side forms match the backs 
lengthwise of the plaid, so great care must be exercised in 
cutting these forms. The better plan is to cut the centre 
backs first, then baste in one side form lining. Take a 
scrap of the plaid and fit the plaids together, use this as 
a guide in covering the side forms. 



The system almost compels accuracy in the foregoing 
lessons, but has no power over the joining of the garment 
together. We can tell you to " baste carefully on the 
tracings as a guide to sew by," but many pay no atten- 
tion to it, they baste carelessly, or not at all, or where 
they like, and although urged to "join all parts at waist 
line," they do nothing of the kind. To such dress-mak- 
ers we can only say, You do not give the System a fair 
test. You injure its reputation and your own, and if you 
would only baste carefully, and teach your sewing girls 
to do the same, you would need to do no refitting, and 
could do double the work. To those who know the value of 
the System, and are willing to follow its teachings to the 
end, we extend our heartfelt thanks. 

1 . Fold a hem on the left front, baste in small stitches 
near the edge. On right, or button side, fold the lining 
hem in between outside and lining, turn in half the hem 
of goods, leaving a screen for under the button holes ; 
stitch or hem close to edge of the lining. At waist line, 
the hems must be cut across nearly to the fold to allow 
them to fold smoothly. 

2. Double the darts and baste in fine, even stitches, 
join the forms to the centre backs, basting fine, and 
keeping the waist lines exactly together. 

3. Baste the shoulders last, and before joining them, 
stretch them all you can. There is no danger of 
stretching them too much. Few ever stretch them 
enough. Run a thread along the back shoulder, and full 
it at least one-half an inch; in elderly forms it is often 
needful to full the back shoulder an inch. Commence 
at the neck to baste the shoulders, first pin the seams 
even, then baste. It is not expected these seams will 
come out even at armscye, the front is to be trimmed to 
fit the back. All the other seams should fit together 
perfectly. Cut the under-arm seams across at waist line, 



28 

nearly to the tracings, to allow them to fit over the hip. 

4. Make hook-and-eye pieces shaped like the French 
front, and baste them in front dart seams, let the waist 
lap one-fourth of an inch when these are hooked. 

5. Baste the sleeves on the tracings, run a thread 
around the top and draw slightly. 

6. Join the sleeve to armscye, the under seam placed 
one and one-half inches above the under-arm seam of 
waist, and the back sleeve seam joining the round form 
seam in back. All the fullness at top is between the 
shoulder seam and the chest line on waist; double the 
armscye of front, mark the middle, and move all gathers 
above this mark. If in trying on, the waist is a very 
little loose or tight, do not rip out your bastings, nor try 
to change it, but stitch just outside or inside the seams, 
scarcely making any change, and it will result in the 
right size. There are eleven seams, and if a change of 
one-sixteenth of an inch were left out or taken up on 
them all, it would result in the difference of nearly an inch 
in the size. So do not stitch without giving the matter 
some consideration. When the seams are not to be 
pressed open they should all turn forward except the 
darts. 

If the dress, in trying on, is too long in the back, it 
will not drop below the waist line, but will be full and 
high in the back of the neck, and the shoulder will need 
to be taken in. Trim the armscye on top of arm enough 
to make the sleeve set well; a long shoulder is not to be 
tolerated. 

Where the right hip is higher than the left, it will be 
found necessary to clip the threads and let the seam out 
on the higher hip. If the measure is taken under both 
arms, and one hip is found to be the higher, measure 
with rule from armscye, and form hip-line from the 
length obtained. This hip curve will extend above the 
waist line. If the waist needs trimming out in the neck, 
the length of front was too long. 

Variations. — 1. When the under-arm length is V or 
less, make the darts one-half inch higher. 

2. Darts may be farther from line A B than the rule 
without changing the fit, the darts may also be further 
apart. 



29 

3. Lines H and I may be omitted, and one line 
drawn between them, giving the French back. 

4. The amount of goods to be taken out in two darts 
may be all taken out in one dart if desired; the dart, in 
this case, w T ill look better to be seamed up one-half an inch 
higher. 

5. If a lady has a very full bust, a line may be drawn 
below waist line in front, from one inch below 16, to the 
waist dot, (24,) and the darts drawn from this line, mak- 
ing waist longer in front (see dotted line on diagram.) 

6. For a loose-fitting garment leave out the darts. 

CAUSE AND EFFECT. 

It frequently occurs that ladies with no knowledge of 
plain sewing wish to learn the System, and hope to be 
enabled thereby to do their own and their family sewing. 
The System is, of course, the foundation of the science of 
garment cutting, but no lady can do justice to herself or 
to the System who does not fully understand how to 
make and drape a garment after it is cut. To meet this 
difficulty, a new book has been prepared, called Amateur 
Dress-making, giving all the required knowledge, and it 
needs only study on the part of the pupil to enable her 
to become an artistic dress-maker. It explains the most 
minute details of the art of dress-making, and it is hoped 
every lady using the Ross Tailor System will secure a 
copy and inform herself upon this subject. The cause 
of any ill-fitting or trouble in using this System is en- 
tirely due to inaccuracy in your sewing. The price, 
post-paid, is only one dollar. 

PATTERNS. 

It is urged upon all ladies who use our System to re- 
fuse to cut paper patterns. Offer to cut and trace lin- 
ings instead, as no one, not familiar with all the fine de- 
tails of our work, can cut a garment from a pattern and 
make of it a success. It only injures the reputation of 
the System, and causes much dissatisfaction between 
dress-maker and patron . 



30 

The System is easily learned by the pupil, without a 
teacher, by referring constantly to the diagrams. The 
references to dots are all in brackets ( ), thus avoiding the 
confusion of not knowing whether the number refers to 
diagram or rule. In case any one gets puzzled, and 
wishes information from us, the better way is for her to 
send in the measure and ]et us draft the pattern; it will 
be lettered and dotted to correspond with the diagram. 
If no measure is sent, we use the one given in the in- 
struction book. 

The Price for making the draft of entire garment, .50 

" " " " any one part of garment, .25 

THE TRACING WHEEL AND TAPE LINE. 

No sewing room is complete without a tine steel tracer 
and a first-class satteen tape line. The tracer is indis- 
pensable, and, at the low price of 50 cts., no dress-maker 
can be excused for being without one. The satteen tape 
lines are accurate, strong, and will out-wear a dozen 
cheap ones, and give satisfaction while in use. Most of 
the cheap tapes are inaccurate, as will be found by com- 
paring with your rule, and are easily stretched out of 
true. 

RETAIL PRICE LIST. 

Mrs. Ross' Tailor System, Rule, and Instruction Book $5 00 

Mrs. Ross 1 Tailor System, with Personal Instructions 7 00 

Amateur Dress-making 1 00 

Extra copies of Instruction Book 50 

Measure Book 25 

Tracing Wheel, 50 

Best Satteen Measures 50 

Manilla Paper (cannot be sent by mail), per quire 25 

Agent's Price List, free on application. 
Any of the above articles sent by mail on receipt of 
price. 



31 

HOW TO SEND MONEY. 



It is best to send the full amount with order, as we 
can send the goods by mail, which is cheaper than ex- 
press, and the danger of losing the goods is very slight. 

Money may be sent by express, P. O. order, or postal 
note. Small amounts may be sent in stamps. 

No goods sent C. O. D. unless the order is accom- 
panied by $2.00. Express charges must be prepaid. 

Address all orders to 

MRS. H. A. ROSS, 

65 Beach Street. Battle Creek, Mich. 




Studies in Plain Needlework & Amateur Dressmaking. 

This Work has been especially prepared to meet 
the constantly increasing- demand for instructions 
in dressmaking-, especially CUTTING AND Fitting. 
As a knowledge of sewing is the foundation of dress- 
making, we have, in part first, given the fullest ex- 
planations of the various details of needlework, and 
illustrated each lesson so plainly that learning is 
made a pleasure instead of a hardship. 

The Rules of Proportion are given to enable those 
who employ others to do their sewing, to detect de- 
fects, and intelligently suggest remedies for the same, 
and also to assist those who do their own dressnojik- 
ing, to do their work artistically. See last pag e cover. 



THE CHALK TRACING WHEEL. 

This is a useful invention, taking the place of chalk in 
marking lines on dress goods, making a fine and even 
mark. In cutting bias folds it is indispensable. The price 
is only fifteen cents. Sent by mail on receipt of price. 



Every lady using- our System should provide herself with 
our New Measure Book, contains space for two hundred meas- 
ures, the name of each measure neatly printed in rotation, a 

line for date , name , style - — , and price . The 

paper alone would cost more than the price we ask for the book 
neatly bound,— only 25 cents. Address, 

Mrs. H. A. ROSS, Battle (reek, Mich. 

BLIND tlErVlIVtllVO. 

Can be used for hemming draperies, hemming pleatings, 
strapping or hemming pleatings, facing dresses, laying- 
seams, etc. Can be taken apart as readily as applied, with- 
out injuring the goods. The material is put up in tape 
form, each bolt accompanied by Gray's Patent Double 
Gauge for applying the above Process for Blind Hemming. 
Sent by mail, with full directions, on receipt of price. 
75 cents, small size; $1.50 large size. 



AMATEUR DRESSMAKING. 





BY MRS. H. A. ROSS. 



This book fully explains, in simple language, the many 
different parts of dressmaking. It divides the work into | 
lessons, beginning with plain sewing, hemming, gathering, 
making buttonholes, making trimmings, making collars and 
cutis, dress skirts, drapery, waists and sleeves, and answers 
the one thousand and one puzzling questions asked every 
day by beginners. It is the most reliable information ob- 
tainable, and should be studied faithfully by every lady, 
old or young, who desires to learn to make her own gar. 
ments, or those of her family. 



AGENTS WANTED. 

Address all orders to 

MRS. H. A. ROSS, 



Battle Creek, Mich. 



. - '.-—. --'. — _r ?■*.—.: _ 



